"Water City Osaka Waterside Walking Guide" Waterside Walking Guide by Area 3 "Nakanoshima Area"

[Waterside Walking Guide by Area]

The urban island that has brought prosperity to the water city of Osaka
Nakanoshima area

Nakanoshima is an island stretching about 3km from east to west, sandwiched between the Dojima River to the north and the Tosabori River to the south. Nakanoshima is the island that brought prosperity to the water city of Osaka, and has continued to be a symbol of Osaka throughout the ages.

The formation of Nakanoshima

Nakanoshima, once farmland, was developed during the Edo period by Yodoya Tsuneyasu, one of Osaka's wealthiest merchants, and various feudal domains began building storehouses there from the late 16th century. In the late 17th century, when the development of the canals progressed and the excavation of the Aji River allowed ships that entered Osaka Bay to sail up close to the city center, the number of storehouses rapidly increased, and at its peak in the early 19th century, there were well over 100 storehouses.
The storehouses were used as storage facilities and Osaka residences for rice and other local specialties collected as annual taxes within the domain. These products were distributed throughout the country, including Edo, and Osaka became the center of the Japanese economy as Japan's largest logistics hub, the "Kitchen of the Nation." The rows of storehouses in Nakanoshima symbolized Osaka's status as the economic center of the country.
However, when the feudal domains were abolished in the Meiji era, the storehouses were no longer needed, and their sites were used for public and cultural facilities such as Nakanoshima Park, Osaka Prefectural Central Library, and Osaka City Central Public Hall, and Nakanoshima once again became an area that symbolized Osaka in a new era. Currently, historical buildings such as the city hall and the Bank of Japan stand along Midosuji, and to the west there are high-rise buildings of major companies and hotels, as well as cultural facilities such as the International Conference Center and the Osaka Nakanoshima Museum of Art, making it the base for Osaka's culture and economy. Furthermore, because of the good environment, where you can view the river and take a stroll despite being in the city, high-rise apartment buildings have been built in the area, making it a popular residential area as well.

"Dojima Rice Market, one of the twelve views of Naniwa" by Yoshimitsu Sasaki, early Meiji period (Owned by Osaka Prefectural Nakanoshima Library)

"Dojima Rice Market Site" Monument

Naniwa Three Great Bridges

During the Edo period, Osaka had 12 "public bridges" built and repaired at the expense of the shogunate, and among them, Tenmabashi, Tenjinbashi, and Naniwabashi, which span the Okawa River, were known as the "Three Great Naniwa Bridges." Naniwabashi was a curved bridge with a high center that curved like a bow, so it was said that 16 surrounding bridges could be seen in the distance, making it one of Osaka's most popular tourist spots.
Today's Naniwabashi and Tenjinbashi bridges span two rivers, the Dojimagawa and Tosaborigawa, across Nakanoshima. However, in the Edo period, Nakanoshima only extended downstream from Naniwabashi (Nakanoshima was later expanded upstream), so all three bridges were literally large bridges that spanned the Okawa River in one go. Furthermore, the Okawa River was wider at the time than it is today; for example, Tenjinbashi Bridge, the current steel arch bridge built in 1934, is 211m long, but the wooden bridge from the Edo period was 250m long. It's no wonder that there was a song that went, "Tenjinbashi Bridge is so long, it'd be scary if it fell off."
In 45, a new overpass (Shin-Tenmabashi) was constructed on top of the existing bridge in order to ease traffic congestion. This two-tiered bridge is part of the modern "Water City" landscape.

Part of "Riding Handbook, Okawa Handbook," by Takashima Harumatsu, 1843 (Osaka Municipal Library Digital Archive)
The painting depicts Naniwa's three great bridges: Naniwa Bridge, Tenjin Bridge, and Tenma Bridge, but you can see that the eastern end (upstream) of Nakanoshima does not reach Naniwa Bridge.

"One Hundred Views of Naniwa, Three Great Bridges" by Utagawa Kunimoto, late Edo period (Osaka Municipal Library Digital Archive)

Tenjinbashi

The original Tenjinbashi bridge spanned the Okawa River in one go, just like Naniwabashi and Tenmabashi bridges. However, in 4, soil from the Yodo River low-water construction project was used to fill in the land to expand Nakanoshima Park upstream, and by the mid-Taisho period, Nakanoshima had reached a little upstream from Tenjinbashi, so the bridge became a bridge over the Dojima River and Tosabori River. The current bridge is a triple-arched copper bridge that was built in 1915 to coincide with the expansion of Matsuyamachi-suji. The bridge nameplate from the iron bridge days is currently preserved at the north end of Tenjinbashi. In 9, a spiral slope was installed on the tip of Nakanoshima Park, and the stairs leading down to the park are decorated with ceramic blocks of Japanese envoy ships and ceramic panels replicating the Tenjin Festival scrolls from Tenmangu Shrine.

Tenjinbashi in the daytime

The bridge is lit up with the theme of "flickering lights," and the warm orange light makes the low, light arch stand out vividly above the water. The spiral slope is lit up in winter by the Aquapolis Osaka Consortium as part of the Osaka Light Festival area program "Aquapolis Osaka Week Nakanoshima EAST Waterfront Promenade." The slowly changing colors create a view reminiscent of a lighthouse at the tip of Nakanoshima.

Tenjinbashi at night

Namba Bridge

A pair of lion statues welcome visitors at the foot of the bridge, which is why it is affectionately known as Lion Bridge. All bridges over the water corridor have their names displayed so that boats can see the name of the bridge, and the name of Naniwa Bridge was written in 21 by then Governor Hashimoto and Mayor Hiramatsu.

Namba Bridge

Calligraphy by former Mayor Hiramatsu

Calligraphy by former Governor Hashimoto

"One Hundred Views of Naniwa: Cool Evening at Naniwa Bridge" by Utagawa Kunimitsu, late Edo period (Osaka Municipal Library Digital Archive)
This area was once a popular tourist destination, attracting many people as a great place to view cherry blossoms, the moon, and fireworks.

Nakanoshima Park

Nakanoshima Park, which was developed in 24 as Osaka's first municipal park, is an oasis in the city center, stretching 1891 km east to west between the Dojima River and the Tosabori River, covering an area of ​​1.5 hectares. In spring and autumn, the park is bustling with families and groups spending time on the lawns.
The rose garden in the park is famous, with about 310 varieties and 3700 rose bushes planted, and many people visit to see the roses in spring and autumn, when they are in full bloom. The patchwork flower bed in the center is planted from west to east, starting with the oldest varieties, so you can learn about the cultural history of roses as you walk around.

Nakanoshima Park

Osaka Central Public Hall

Nakanoshima Public Hall was built in 1918 as a place for citizens to gather in the town of Nakanoshima, where the storehouses had been abolished and the town had fallen into decline. It is a prestigious building that incorporates the neo-Renaissance style, and has been designated as an Important Cultural Property by the government. The construction costs were covered by a donation of 100 million yen (equivalent to several billion yen today) from stockbroker Einosuke Iwamoto, who was impressed by the American culture of donations. However, Einosuke later suffered heavy losses in the stock market turmoil caused by World War I, and was urged by those around him to return at least some of the 100 million yen he had donated to the city of Osaka. However, he refused, saying, "It would be a disgrace for an Osaka merchant to ask for a return of something that has already been donated," and he committed suicide in 5 (aged 1916) without seeing the completion of the public hall.

Osaka Central Public Hall

The Museum of Oriental Ceramics, Osaka

This museum boasts the world's best quality and quantity of its collection of Oriental ceramics, mainly exhibiting Chinese and Korean ceramics. It houses approximately 2 pieces, including two national treasures and 13 important cultural properties. It was renovated and reopened in 2,700, and now the latest lighting and AR technology make viewing even more enjoyable. A cafe has also been opened.

The Museum of Oriental Ceramics, Osaka

Children's Book Forest Nakanoshima

This cultural facility was created with the hope that "children will pick up a wide variety of books and develop limitless creativity and curiosity." The building, designed by architect Tadao Ando, ​​and the blue apple sculpture look stunning even from the boat. Advance reservations are required to enter, but adults can enter on their own.

Children's Book Forest Nakanoshima

Kitahama Terrace

Kitahama Terrace is a riverside seating area in Osaka facing the Tosabori River, across from Nakanoshima Park. It is run by the Kitahama Waterfront Council, which is made up of tenants, building owners, NPOs, and residents in the Kitahama area, with the aim of bringing a new bustle to the waterfront as a new Osaka tradition. Guests can enjoy eating and drinking while feeling the river close enough to wave to passengers on sightseeing boats passing by on the water. Currently, there are 14 popular restaurants and cafes lined up, and it has become a popular fashion spot in Osaka. From the terrace, you can see the greenery of Nakanoshima Park and Osaka City Central Public Hall across the river, and you can enjoy a sense of openness that makes it hard to believe you are in the middle of the city.

Kitahama Terrace

Tekijuku

Tekijuku, which still stands in the Kitahama business district, is the remains of a school opened in 9 by Ogata Koan, a leading scholar of Dutch medicine. It was named after Koan's pen name, Tekijuku. Omura Masujiro and Fukuzawa Yukichi served as school heads, and the school produced many notable people from the end of the Edo period to the Meiji period, including Hashimoto Sanai and Nagayo Sensai. It is currently designated as a national historic site and important cultural property, and you can visit the interior.

Tekijuku

"One Hundred Views of Naniwa: Nabeshima Landscape from Oebashi" by Utagawa Kunimoto, late Edo period (Osaka Municipal Library Digital Archive)

Dojima Shinchi and Sonezaki Shinchi, the birthplace of Kitashinchi

Today, Dojima is known as an office district stretching south of Umeda, but it once lay on an island between the Dojima River to the south and the Sonezaki River (Shijimi River) to the north, and was, as its name suggests, an "island." In the early Edo period, an entertainment district called "Dojima Shinchi" flourished here, but as storehouses and rice markets were built there, the center of entertainment moved to Sonezaki Shinchi on the north bank of the Sonezaki River. In 42, the Sonezaki River was filled in and Dojima was no longer an "island," but it remains bustling today as Kitashinchi.

"Sonezaki River Site" Monument

Nakanoshima Cross

Nakanoshima Cross is an international hub for future medicine that had its grand opening in June 6. It is a one-of-a-kind hub for the industrialization of future medicine, where medical institutions, companies, startups, support organizations, etc. gather under one roof.
It consists of three facilities (areas): the "Future Medicine MED Center," the "Future Medicine R&D Center," and the "Nakanoshima International Forum," each of which has the role of "practicing," "creating," and "sharing" future medicine.

Nakanoshima Cross

Nakanoshima Museum of Art, Osaka and Yuzo Saeki

The Nakanoshima Museum of Art, Osaka, which opened in 4, houses and exhibits a vast collection of art and design from the late 2022th century to the present day. In particular, it boasts one of the largest collections of works in Japan in terms of quality and quantity, including those by Saeki Yuzo, a representative Western-style painter from the Taisho and early Showa periods.
Saeki Yuzo was born in 31 at Kotoku-ji Temple in Nakatsumura (present-day Nakatsu, Kita-ku, Osaka City), and after graduating from Tokyo School of Fine Arts, he lived in Paris, France, where he pursued his career as an artist. He returned to Japan only briefly from 1898 to the following year, but during his short stay in Japan he left behind around 1926 paintings with sailing ships anchored in the Ajigawa and Shirinashigawa rivers. Incidentally, the Yodogawa River improvement project, which redirected the flow of the river to the west just north of Kotoku-ji Temple, began two years before Yuzo was born and was completed in 20, so it may be that Yuzo had a special affection for rivers from an early age.

Nakanoshima Museum of Art, Osaka

Octopus Pine

During the time when the storehouses were lined up along the Dojima River, pine trees were planted as a prized possession of each feudal domain. Among these, Hamanomatsu, located on the left bank of the Dojima River on the border between the Kurume Domain and the Hiroshima Domain, was a famous tree known as the "Octopus Pine" because its branches resembled the shape of an octopus. During the bank protection work in 16, the "Octopus Pine" was recreated on the opposite bank, at the north end of Taninobashi Bridge, recalling its former elegance.

Octopus Pine

"Photographic Naniwa Hyakkei: The Octopus Pine Trees of Nakanoshima" by Hasegawa Sadanobu, circa 1868 (Osaka Municipal Library Digital Archive)

Birthplace of Yukichi Fukuzawa (former storehouse of the Nakatsu Domain)

Fukuzawa Yukichi, a Meiji-era thinker who founded Keio University, was born in the Nakatsu Domain's storehouse in 5. Currently, a monument marking the birthplace of Fukuzawa Yukichi has been erected here, along with the famous quote, "Heaven does not create people above others, nor below others."

"Birthplace of Yukichi Fukuzawa" monument (site of Nakatsu Domain storehouse)

"One Hundred Views of Naniwa: Tamaebashi Bridge" by Utagawa Kunimitsu, late Edo period (Osaka Municipal Library Digital Archive)
You can see the five-story pagoda of Shitennoji Temple across the bridge.

Takitaro Mizukami's "Osaka Inn" Literary Monument

Takitaro Mizukami (1887-1940) was appointed deputy general manager of the Osaka branch of the Meiji Life Insurance Company in 6. In Osaka, he stayed at an inn along the Tosabori River, and wrote about the view of the river from there in his novel "Osaka no Yado" (Osaka Inn, 1917, Yuzendo).

After returning home from work, taking a bath, having a drink and eating dinner, I would often sit on a rattan chair on the veranda, feeling the nostalgic river breeze and watching the boats go by. Small boats from various boat rental shops rowed back and forth between the endless boats going up the Yodo River and down to the river's mouth. In recent years, sports have become much more popular here than in Tokyo, so there are quite a lot of women rowing the rented boats. In some cases, a shop boy and a maid were rowing together. In other cases, it seemed like a whole family - a husband, wife, and child from the neighborhood. In other cases, a group of what appeared to be teahouse waitresses, with their hair in round topks and gingko-gaeshi, were playing together. Mita also suddenly felt like giving it a go, so he rented a single-seater boat and became addicted to it. On days when the weather was good, he would usually spend the time on the water after having a drink until it was completely dark.

In addition, on the right bank of the Tosabori River downstream from Higobashi Bridge, there is a literary monument to "Osaka no Yado" with the following passage engraved on it:

Mita felt strangely lonely. Standing close to the railing, beneath the clear, starry sky which stretched out into the distance, the sound of the oars of a riverboat sailing quietly down the river could be heard, clear and sharp, then faded away.

(Takashima)

Takitaro Mizukami's "Osaka Inn" Literary Monument